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  1. 3 likes
    We have the British APDT @arealhuman. Their motto is Kind, Fair and Effective. All members are required to have some experience, to have been studying and, most importantly, they have to be assessed. This means that another, experienced, APDT member sits in on one their classes and writes a report to the APDT. If the trainer passes on all these points it does not end there. They are required, for continuing membership, to undertake regular CPD (Continuous Professional Development). The APDT run lots of courses that trainers can attend and have an extensive library of appropriate books for members to borrow. So you see that any old Tom, Dick or Harry cannot just put their names on a register, as with some organisations, they really do have to have a good understanding of dog training in a Kind, Fair and Effective way. Most importantly, they also have to be prepared to keep learning. If you scroll through the posts on here you will see many recommendations for the APDT whether it is for Puppy Classes, Adult Classes or One-to-One sessions.
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    Well, after much prevaricating, I decided to just send in the change of ownership form and see what happens. My research showed that, as the "keeper" of the dog, I was obliged, in law, to have his microchip registered in my name. Rather than involve the rescue, because I already knew their position, I just sent in the form with the fee. I saw the cheque had been cashed and then a letter welcoming me to PetLog's upgraded service arrived. All sorted! So relieved! I don't know why it bothered me so much but it was just awful to consider that, if he lost his collar tag, and went missing he would end up back at the original rescue (assuming they had even re registered his Romanian chip which is not guaranteed knowing them). Funnily enough after I sent off the form he did lose his collar tag! All sorted now, though, and I can relax.
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    For the future Terry, please be aware that this area is about pedigree whippets and your first post started off dredging up an old thread to share way more information than most people can take in from one post, but also talking all about other breeds and then taking everything very much off topic. I know that you have lots of knowledge, but can you use it more sparingly and cause less blunt force trauma with it please? We need to both leave the nice people who are discussing whippets to do so in peace
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    There is absolutely no substitute for a well qualified trainer or behaviourist that is seeing the actual dog. We can only give general advice on here because we don't know you or your dog. As long as your trainer or behaviourist is using modern motivational methods (as will members of APDT for dog trainers or COAPE/APBC for behaviourists) then you will be fine. Discuss what you have read elsewhere with them to see what their opinion is.
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    Thanks to you both. The Halti doesn't seem to be particularly heavy and I don't have to have it tight. Apart from the pulling on the lead she really is a very good dog and she doesn't seem to be bothered by the halti at all - i didn't even have to train her to let me put it on her the first time, she is very accepting. shes probably enjoying lead walks more herself, now that I'm not constantly 'nagging' her to walk and keep stopping and starting all the time.
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    The OP had already been guided in the direction of COAPE and APBC. There was no need to provide a further list of people, many of them duplicates, but most of them trainers rather than behaviourists. By your own admission a behaviourist was needed so why add a whole lot of trainers into the mix? The OP was more than capable of doing their own internet research and just needed some guidance towards a quality source of behaviour advice. That quality is more than adequately supplied, in this country, by either APBC or COAPE. Job done.
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    Much easier, surely then, to just go straight to the APBC website and choose a Fully Qualified Behaviourist form there. Why sift through all the names of trainers on another list? Will you just concede please, Leashed for Life, that those of us working in the sector over here know more about it than those from other countries? I would not presume, for example, to question your knowledge of how to find a good behaviourist in the States.
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    Does he cock his leg when he pees? This is a sign of sexual maturity and helps with knowing what might be going on. What ages was he neutered? I concur with all that JoanneF has said about a re visit to reward based house training. You will know that he has "got it" when he seeks you out to accompany him to the garden so that he can get a reward for his outdoor pee! Was he a summer puppy? Some dogs that are house trained in the summer confuse the inside and outside of a house and are not really fully house trained. So, again, back to basics. Is he worried about anything in the outdoor environment? Any loud noises, new neighbours etc? Fear can produce and need to seek "relief". That can lead a dog to pee in order to feel "relief" even if only for a short time. Anxiety of any sort can produce this behaviour. What is his relationship with your other dog like? Would he be worried, for instance, to stop and pee in the garden for fear of being pounced on? It might be fun to the other dog but not so much for him?
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    I buy the little sandwich bags for treats in my pocket to try to prevent smells! And I make liver cake - A pack of liver (supermarket packs are usually about 500 grams) About 250 grams of flour - I use gluten free as some dogs are gluten intolerant 1 egg A slosh of olive oil or salmon oil for a glossy coat (optional) Cut the liver into pieces and use a hand blender to blitz it with the egg until it's a sloppy mess. Stir in the oil if using and the flour. It still should be a sloppy mess. Turn into a parchment lined baking tray measuring about 6"x9". It shold be about an inch deep. Bake at 170 degrees for about 15 minutes until a knife comes out clean. When it's cold, cut into kit kat finger sized pieces - half them again for a smaller dog - and freeze them in a freezer bag. They freeze in separate pieces so you can take out one at a time and break into smaller pieces for training. Dogs love it, it has no sugar, salt or other nasties and lasts for weeks. It also is cheap to make - a recent survey showed some dog treats to be more epensive, ounce for ounce, than fillet steak!
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    Is it really impossible to have her in your room? If she were there (even in her bed but not in a crate if space is the issue) you could more easily ask for a 'settle down' from her. At 10 months she should be clean overnight I assume? Once she is sleeping or quiet overnight you can gradually (a foot or a yard at a time) start moving her to where you want her to sleep.
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    I think a child is playing a recorder and he's howling!
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    How big is your dog? What breed or mix? I think that age is a big thing here- she may be adult in biological terms, but behaviourally she's right in the 'I'm a little monster' phase for lots of breeds. Personally I'd go back to basics and take her somewhere that you know she can't escape from and where she's more likely to be bored than excited, and I'd watch her like a hawk to see where and when the cues that she's going to go off awandering happen. I learned to spot the moment of quiet and calm before Molly (the adorable but frustrating rescue GSD in my avatar) started reacting to another dog, and spotting that moment and interrupting it was the key to moderating her behaviour. If I called her before she had done that little moment of composure then there was no reaction and I could call her back to me and put her on the lead for the dog avoiding routine. I also advise people that are going to try the long line then a steel cored washing line attached to a harness is sometimes the best way to go. It doesn't put their neck at risk in the event that it gets caught up, and you can tailor the length to the dog and standing on the end will stop all bar the most determined of dogs. If you can interrupt her decision process on going for a wander with a piece of lovely bribe then you may be able to get her out of her boundary testing quickly. Good luck
  13. 2 likes
    This is another thread where you are likely to find that less is more and starting with an awful lot of links just closes other people down. Can you start with a post of your own opinion and just maybe one or two links to let others feel more able to join in please?
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    Hi, not sure how to import a web link but can give you details:. Www.petsathome.com sell the head collar that we are using. It's called a 'Halti Optifit Dog Head Collar' and the product code is: P4566, they charge £18 I think. I have taken a couple of photos of Evie wearing hers and in profile you can see the ring where I clip the lead. She is a medium sized Cockapoo and I bought the medium. It is very lightweight and works really well for us, but I will say she isn't particularly strong and a stronger one might work better for a larger strong dog,. Gypsysmum has put details of ones she has used in this thread I believe. Good luck, as I say worked wonders for us straight from the start.
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    It is! Welcome here, I've not been here that long and everyone is friendly and helpful
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    Anxiety will sometimes prevent eating. When dogs are anxious the fight/flight kicks in and the body is told not to take on more food as it will hinder the ability for run fast or stand and fight. Think about your tight tummy when you are nervous/anxious. Whether a dog eats or not, in a given situation, is sometimes a good indicator of the state of their emotions. As you already know he likes that chew then this inability to chew it could be a good indicator of the emotional state when in the car. Knowing the emotional state is crucial to helping a dog overcome a problem. It is useless trying to teach them a new behaviour because their brain is flooded with messages telling them to be ready to flee/fight. If that is denied than the anxiety may manifest in frustration etc.
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    Well, an update for anyone who might be interested, our dog traveled in the car in his crate for the first time on Monday and again today too. They were both relatively long trips (1 hour+) and the top of the crate was covered so he could only see forward, but not enough to see oncoming traffic. Not a peep! Result! He didn't seem too keen to go in, but eventually went in chasing a treat and once we were moving, lay down and seemed fairly chilled from what I could tell
  18. 2 likes
    Haltis are great so if you are happy with the results I would just stick with it. I prefer a different brand, the Dogalter, but it is quite a heavy duty bit of kit. A light framed dog might find it uncomfortable. When I remember (!) the name of a lighter weight alternative I will post it on here. Some dogs find wearing any kind of head gear calming. It comes from when they are tiny pups and their mother would lift them by cradling the head in her jaws. The pup's instinct is to relax. That instinct still kicks in when a headcollar is fitted to some dogs.
  19. 2 likes
    Dear Peegee, Please don't feel like a failure. The Halti is a marvellous item to use, it is not severe and I find that dogs are easier to control by just turning their heads, they learn to walk loosely with the halti on and are such a pleasure after all of the normal tugging. Halti's do not have to be tightly fitted. My old chap wore the Halti whenever we went out for lead walks, he learnt to walk loosely very quickly and I could hold the lead between finger and thumb, as that is all that was needed ! However if I was to ever use the lead attached to his collar his head would go straight down to sniff as much as he could and tension would be felt through the lead. I like loose leads when they are attached not tight ones. Enjoy your walks.
  20. 2 likes
    No more ten mile walks!!! He'll be limited to one hour of walking.
  21. 2 likes
    I love too far away but wanted to say best of luck, what a great cause. There is another forum with (I think) a bigger membership, you should post there too - www.petforums.co.uk
  22. 2 likes
    I know that Whippets do differ from other breeds by being late to come in season and every bitch will vary in its season cycle so she could well be coming into season. Do you meet any dogs on your walks. They usually know before anyone else does! In the mean time just keep a very close eye on her general behaviour to see if she shows any other symptoms. It may be that she has a bladder infection or that she has become nervous of something. Urinating causes a dog to feel "relief". Sometimes, if they are experiencing anxiety, they will wee in order to experience that feeling of relief. Something else to watch out for
  23. 2 likes
    Huskies are not known for being handler focussed, or for having good recall. Is your dog a Chi? Do they know each other? I would be prepared to have them separated, just in case, so plan for two separate walks each time, separate feeding, separate sleeping areas etc.
  24. 2 likes
    I agree with JoanneF. Ditch the puppy pads! By putting them down you are saying "here you are a nice indoor toilet". The puppy has no idea that it is the pad you are wanting him to target. He thinks that it is fine to toilet indoors. The only reason puppies use them is because they are absorbent. Only by following the advice above and training your puppy to want to go outside in order to get a fantastic treat, and a very happy owner, will you make any progress.
  25. 2 likes
    I don't like puppy pads - they give mixed messages about whether it's ok to toilet indoors and confuse the puppy, they make the process of toilet training a lot slower. Ideally you want him to not be in a position where he needs to toilet before you have him outdoors, so that every toilet is outside - as far as possible, there will be accidents! So set him up to succeed by taking him out - and WAITING with him - even more than he needs; for example every 45 minutes to an hour and always after sleeping, eating, playing. When he toilets outdoors make a huge fuss (never mind the neighbours, act like outdoor toileting is the best thing you have ever seen) and reward him with a high value treat. Do that immediately, don't make him come to you for the treat so he is clear that it's for toileting and not for coming to you. The idea is that he eventually wants to earn the treat enough to hold the toilet until he is outside - once he is physically able to control his toileting obviously. If he has an accident inside don't react at all. If you get annoyed he may learn to fear your reaction and avoid you if he needs to toilet - the opposite of what you want. As he is actually performing the toilet you can introduce words he can associate with it (like 'do weewee' and 'busy busy') that later when he is reliably trained you can use these to tell him when you want him to toilet. Indoors if you see him circling or scratching the floor, that can sometimes precede toileting so get him out fast.
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    I have often wondered about dogs being selective about their recall. I know my Whippet is great most of the time, but when she sees a rabbit or squirrel she's off after it and will not respond. But I know that I'm a reader and often during my life I've been reading when someone, normally my wife, pokes me and I realise she has been talking to me. Now honestly it's not a case of me ignoring her it is that I have not heard her because I am so absorbed. So I tend to think the Whippet is the same, some prey to chase so her brain is completely taken over by the chase and she does not actually hear me. Fortunately larger things don't interest her and rabbits go under ground quickly and squirrels go up a tree so the chase is soon over.
  28. 1 like
    I see anxiety in the posture, that dog is not a happy dog howling along with something for fun, he looks alarmed and on the defensive to me (for contrast check out my friend's Dobe Ailsa, sadly no longer with us, and her happy Pink Floyd rendition):
  29. 1 like
    ^^What she says! As a 'noisy breed' person I can also recommend teaching her to bark on command and stop on command, in case you have no choice but to interact with her, so that you can give her the stop signal rather than any greeting. If you know that the she knows the command for stopping barking you could also be seriously sneaky and during the day when she's not in the utility you could set up a webcam or similar so that when she barks you can tell her to stop without being there. Distance commands can work wonderfully when used in just the right way, and it could also allow you to see what she's doing or what is happening to spark her barking. Generally it's good practise to only pay your dog attention when they are being good, just like only ever getting attention when all 4 feet are on the floor is a really good way of stopping them jumping up.
  30. 1 like
    Wow, thank you @leashedForLife for the in depth response. I will certainly look into it as an option.
  31. 1 like
    How did we get from flatulence, through a dozen or so external reference material links, to dogs' ability to read human microexpressions?
  32. 1 like
    It's not a reward for performance, there's no contingency [ -If- U do this, -then- U get that...] - it's pure association: "I see or hear a dog? -- Goodies are coming, oh, joy!..." the idea is to DS / CC the dog's previous emotional response; DeSensitization helps the dog lose the habit of hyperalert surveying for other dogs, & Counter-Conditioning is to literally 'counter' the bad memories [or excitement, or fright, or anger, or ______] that the dog currently connects to the trigger. Bar Open/ Bar Closed is pure classical conditioning, right out of the B F Skinner playbook. It's association - this happens, then that [predictive], or WHILE this happens, so does ____ . Associations can be happy, scary, exciting, etc. When we create a new association to a familiar or a novel stimulus / event, that's classical conditioning. [Pavlov, Skinner, etc.] In this case, since we're using CC / open-bar + closed-bar to change an existing emotional response to a known trigger, we call it counter-conditioning. the original experiments that puffed meat-powder into the mouths of Pavlov's dogs after they heard a bell chime, were also classical conditioning - Pair a neutral stimulus with an unconditioned valuable event [food - nobody needs to "learn to like" food, hence it's unconditioned]. // The BELL is the conditioned stimulus, in that once it's strongly associated, the dogs will drool & swallow at the sound of the chime, even when no food is present. We're trying to detach the conditioned stimuli [sight or sound of an approaching dog] & ditch the bad memories, while MAKING new memories that connect the sight or sound of another dog to Good Things. // The dog can bark, growl, lunge, etc - THEY STILL GET THE GOODY, as long as the other dog is visible or audible. Hopefully U're at a distance where Ur dog is not reactive / is under threshold, but if not, back up while offering goodies from a lowered palm, in a trickle to the dog's mouth or the ground, for snuffling up. Or just get outta Dodge - cue a fluent well-rehearsed Emergency U-Turn, & jog cheerfully away from the unexpected dog/s. Then, once under threshold [not at a reactive distance], start feed, feed, feeding... - terry Terry Pride, member Truly Dog-Friendly 'dogs R dogs, wolves R wolves, & primates R us.' -- (™ 2007)
  33. 1 like
    Has he had a worm egg count done? Even if he has been wormed there are certain types of worms that are harder to eradicate than others. Giardia is the main one I am thinking about. It is common in rescue dogs and causes diarrhoea.
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    He could also be fulfilling an inbred instinct. Several breeds like to dig. You could try diverting his energies to a sand pit in the garden. A child's sand pit made with silver (play) sand from a builders merchant and filled with hidden toys/treats would fit the bill. Do cover it when not in use to prevent the local cats using it as a toilet.
  35. 1 like
    Are you sure that you are not trying to feed him too much food in the attempt of putting weight on him. A lean dog is often much healthier and happier than a heavyweight. Are you able to give him some raw products and reduce his kibble, you may find that raw chicken wings or wet green tripe could help with a delicate tummy, these are easy to digest and with loads of nutrition too. The good calcium in the chicken wings can very often help firm up our doggies poo's and the lovely natural enzymes in the wet green tripe are also very helpful for the digestive system.
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    Indeed. In my rush to get to work, my wife courageously picked it up in a poo bag and disposed of it responsibly. Grrrr. I just hope our neighbours don't think it was us (or our dog!!!).
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    It's really sad to hear the problems your having Eleanor. Doesn't sound like the behaviourist you saw intially helped either yourself or your dog. As Joanne said, this field is largely unregulated - i started to do a 'human' counselling course once, and learnt that's pretty unregulated also, which made me think why am i bothering to spend a small fortune to gain qualifications when i could just set myself up in business unregulated? Think that's why it's really important as Joanne has said to check qualifications, particularly if you're looking for long term solutions. There's even some companies offering'boot camp Luke's dog training online, in a residential setting! I.e call us, tell us your dogs problems, we'll pick them up, train them a return you're now perfectly behaved dog back to you.. really? But i suppose that as long as there are people with money to spend on this type of 'rehabilitation' there will be people willing to pay for it, no doubt often in good faith Sorry, the above should've said 'boot camp like dog training' Sincere apologies if there is a boot camp Luke dog training establishment out there.. purely a slip of the autocorrect lol
  38. 1 like
    I'm down in Devon. We have a leaflet somewhere that says what can and can't go in to the bin. Interestingly, when I phoned the local Council about if I could place bagged poo in a public waste bin, they said yes as it all goes to the "waste to energy" plant.
  39. 1 like
    I agree with everything JoanneF has said. In order to change his behaviour you have to change the emotion he is feeling. If you can replace fear with confidence you will crack his behaviour. Where you cannot use distance to lessen the impact of the other dog then try the "bar open - bar closed" technique. At first sight of another dog start feeding your dog fantastic treats. Keep up the feeding the whole time the dog is visible. (Bar Open) As soon as the other dog disappears stop the treats. (Bar Closed) Over time you should see your dog start to look at you when another dog appears. Reward this with fantastic praise and feed lots of treats one after the other. You are after changing his perception of other dogs from one of dread to one of anticipation of reward. Headcollars are fine and give you more control. The Dogmatic and Dogalter are my personal favourites. Where he does get on with other dogs do encourage him as it will build his confidence and ensure he doesn't widen his fear response to all other dogs. It is often the case that dogs off lead are absolutely fine because we do not interfere with their body language between each other. As soon as we start tightening the lead and moving the head around we ruin the conversation the two dogs are having. Left alone they would probably be fine. One of the biggest barriers to overcome is our embarrassment at our dog's behaviour. This makes us think that we must "do something". The best thing that you can do is just call out your apologies to the other dog owner as you move him outside his critical distance or open the bar. With the traffic fear you could try taking him to a car park and walking him around slow moving traffic while feeding lovely treats. Once comfortable there, move to a 20mph limit and do the same. Progress to a 30 limit etc. Try, if he reacts, to just let him move away from the traffic and wait until he relaxes again. The car problem is very difficult unless you have help to try to distract him from his behaviour. He sees the behaviour as successful because he survived the journey while performing it. If someone could sit with him and distract him with food it might help. Otherwise you will need a complete desensitisation period where you put him in a stationary car, reward him for good behaviour, repeat, repeat, repeat. Start the engine repeat, repeat, repeat. Move a foot or two repeat, repeat, repeat. Move a bit more etc. Only make progress when he is settled in the current stage. As above, you may be insured for a qualified behaviourist from COAPE or APBC. Worth every penny if you have your dog for another ten years or more. In the meantime I recommend "Clever Dog" by Sarah Whitehead to help you understand more about dog behaviour.
  40. 1 like
    There is some more on the non-ped database. Click on K9 Genealogy at the top of the page and then on Non-Pedigree Whippet Database.
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    thank-you for everyone that has had the kindness to help me if there are anymore to add please send them to me as i would like to go back as far as i can thanks again. Rachel.
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    No it was an ickle black whippet about 18/20lb.
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    Thanks Vicky 0 that help me distinguish between the two. Also just seen your PM. Thanks Malcolm Here's a bit mor for you : Wingedfoot Pied Wagtail - Wingedfoot Corinthian x Fairmaid of Dovecot Wingedfoot Corinthian - Ch. Peppard Pied Piper x Juliet Of Thickthorne Fairmaid of Dovecot - Ch. Laguna Liege x Laguna Little Lil Clavell Curlew - Ch. Evening Star Of Allways x Fourwinds Fly What have you got on Bilko as I have conflicting info in my Pedigree & Non-Pedigree Data bases. Was he registered with the K.C. or have I got 2 different dogs. In my Non ped data base I have him as being Swift Hawk x Mossfield Margaret In my pedigree database I have him as Shino x Susan
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    Hay Babe (Haymaker x Bean Gorm)...,Haymaker(Wishy Was x Surprise)...,Wishy Was(Blue Peter x Blackie)...,Surprise(Crazy Horse x Black Sheba)...,Bean Gorm(Kerry Wonder x Rainbow Seal)...,Kerry Wonder(Wonder valley x Swanky Echo)...,Rainbow Seal(Lucky Hi There x Odell Fairy) Kerrys Dream(Rhinegold x Rock on)..., Goodnight Nurse(Wired to moon x Monalee Wrong)..., Goldie(Blue fawn x Golden Wyn)..., Delco(Belco x Della)..., Good As Gold(Golden Link x Cleo)...,Golden Link(Lone Eagle x Miss X)...,Cleo(Bilko x Scarback)
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    Thanks JOHNG and Susan for your information on Lovell.
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    Caledonian Thistle will be starting up on the 28th of March. Look forward to seeing everyone and having another brilliant season. Anyone interested in runing their dogs in a safe envirement and having a great day out on a Sunday why not come along and join in the fun. For any information please contact Secratery [Maggie] tel.01236830273] or e-mail www.stronglane@aol.com Everyone wellcome.
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    Thanks for your lovely comments John - we would love it if all racers were like you, it was a pleasure to accomodate you & your great little dogs i know George spoke highly of you (and very rightly so)!!!
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    some of the winners from yesterday supreme bitch everythings rosie